
On a good day it takes 6 hours to drive the road to the village of Anjabetrongo from the nearest city, Toliare. On a bad day, it takes 10 1/2 hours for the 62 km trek. That’s 10 1/2 hours to travel 38 miles - definitely a day to remember.
First, there’s the rental car. No one who owns a decent car wants to risk sending it into this deep, thorny forest. So we’re grateful to find any car, let alone a decent one. As usual, a polite driver comes with the vehicle - in case it breaks down.
Secondly, we pack it up and weigh it down.
On top of the vehicle we have metal roofing sheets, table and chairs for the new clinic, bed frames, large containers of gasoline, spare tires, and one lonely duffle bag - mine. Into the worn interior we cram water, food, backpacks and sacks, pots and pans, and other miscellaneous supplies - including 50 blankets in plastic wrappers. Add 7 adults, 3 children and one guitar in a car that seats 5 and you have the makings of an interesting journey.
Did I mention that the driver chain smokes?
And then there are the roadside security checkpoints. This is where a rifle-toting man waves down your vehicle for no apparent reason. At one stop a policeman pokes his head through the back window, notes that we are badly overcrowded, and informs us that his friend needs a ride to the next town. There is no room but, if we want to keep moving, we have no choice. So we jam another body into the back and we’re on our way.
At the next checkpoint, the price of forward movement is a Bible for the security guard - a bribe we don’t mind paying. But as long as the vasaha ( that’s me - the lily white foreigner who turns pink in the sun) has a valid passport and the front-seat passengers (that’s not me) are wearing seat belts, we can usually proceed.
Well, we could proceed if our tire wasn’t flat.
But it is, so we pull to the side of the road.
It’s not easy to change a flat tire when the car is so loaded down.
Nor is it easy when we get stuck on a log in the middle of the bush in pitch darkness.
But shortly after, villagers wrapped in colorful blankets appear out of nowhere to help us get unstuck.
I am freezing cold (yes, winter nights are cold in Madagascar) - but my duffel bag is strapped next to the gasoline jug on top and there is no way to get it down. Yes, we do have 50 blankets, but they are gifts for our friends in the Mikea Forest. So I shiver, and I shake, and I listen to the men argue about the right way to get unstuck.
The children are amazing - they either sleep or sing - but they never fuss. My Malagasy partners, Jonoro and Hanitra, and the young men traveling with us just keep smiling and singing.
I love my friends.
And I love these people who are so willing to help stranded travelers late at night.
But I hate this car.
An hour later we’re on our way - heading yet deeper into the bush and deeper into the night. I’m still shivering, but the sleeping child on my lap provides some warmth. I’m lost in the beauty of a star-filled sky when suddenly, I’m shaken out of my reverie by a thunk, a clunk and a sharp swerve to a complete stop.
Outside my window sits a wheel.
And not just any wheel.
No, it’s the wheel that has just fallen off the broken axle of the car that I hate.
“Tsmisy ulanana,” the driver says - “no problem, we have a spare axle.”
And with the patience of a saint, he once again slides under the car.
Note to self: never rent a car that needs to carry a spare axle.
When we finally pull into the village of Anjabetrongo long after midnight, I’m still smiling but I’m chilled to the bone. Pulling on every piece of clothing I have with me, I climb inside a sleeping bag, and shiver myself into a fitful sleep. I’m no warmer when I wake at dawn, so I head outside to stand by the fire - still layered in clothes and wrapped in a blanket.
This is when reality hits me and my perspective shifts.
Standing by the fire is a group of children - several of them are nearly naked. They are not immune to the cold - just the opposite. One little boy shakes as if he’s having convulsions. All of their noses are running, their eyes are infected, their lungs are infected. They have no duffle bag filled with warm clothes. They have no sleeping bag, no blanket. I try to imagine how they sleep through the night shivering naked on the cold ground. I want to give away my blanket, but there are too many children. (I nearly caused a riot in this village once with a few inflatable beach balls!) But we have to find a way to help the vulnerable children.
One of the Malagasy pastors strums the guitar that took up so much room in the crowded car. He begins to sing a praise song and heaven touches earth in this desolate, desperate place. The children smile at me and suddenly I’m not cold anymore.
Getting here is never easy - but it’s worth it.
At this moment, there is no place I would rather be.
Tags:
africa,
madagascar,
missions,
poverty,
travel,
villages,
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